My two cents here as user looking for a good relay combo in the past (not going to repeat what others have already said or mention Haven as this isn't about self-promotion, but I'm very happy that folks are enjoying and recommending it above).
Credit where it's due: theforest.nostr1.com has served (and is still serving) me very well. For a relay with a symbolic join fee, it's brilliant. I unfortunately have to deal with enthusiastic script kiddies spamming me on a regular basis for... reasons... 🤷♂️🤣... Anyway, TheForest1 has never sent any spam my way, and its reliability has been pretty solid.
Thanks for providing this service to the community. I don't know how much active moderation you folks are doing, and I assume it’s costing you both time and money to keep it running so smoothly, but it’s been working well for me.
While I’ve recently signed up to nostr.land (already regretting it a bit, not because of any technical issues, but given the lead dev’s attitude above), IMO theforest.nostr1.com is a great place for new users to experiment with their first “paid” relay (shout out to cloud fodder and 121 others (nprofile…95a7) for relay.tools).
0xchat relays + auth1 are also both amazing for NIP-17. They are booth good choices for folks who are DMing on Nostr (hey... there are... Dozens of us!) and aren't running a personal relay or paid relays with AUTH support. Of course, those are free public relays, so you can expect some unavailability and occasional spikes in latency, but they’re working quite well.